# 30' v 50' Check Cord



## jkt89 (Jan 11, 2013)

Hello all,

Over the past couple weeks my 7 month old has become quite the rebellious one... his recall has gone from good to so-so and "leave it" seems to have become synonymous with keep away! It's frustrating and nerve wracking all at the same time, so I have decided to try a different approach. I've been debating trying an Ecollar, but have decided before I jump the gun with that I want to give a check cord a shot. So my question is, which size should I get? I want it to be long enough so that I can control him from a substantial distance, but I'm not sure if 50 feet is too long for our first attempt at this. Suggestions? 

Thanks!


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## Watson (Sep 17, 2012)

Hi jkt89,

Good call on getting your pup on a check cord. I use this one http://www.gundogsupply.com/k-9-komfort-50--biothane-check-cord.html. 50 feet seems long, but it gives him a good amount of distance from you and will allow you to correct easily when you need to. This one doesn't tangle, but I would recommend using a pair of leather gloves while training to avoid any burn (with any one you decide to use).


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## R E McCraith (Nov 24, 2011)

# 1 - you have 2 consider the cover U run in # 2 what do you want the pup 2 do # 3 I like a check lead & pinch collar on set birds 4 steady 2 point flush & shot - I want a large running pup and love the E collar - # 4 a light weight check lead is great for training a pup 4 whoa & here - # 5 all pups r different # 6 just use common sense this forum will never know your pup or your goals !!!!!!


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## Gingerbread (Aug 7, 2013)

Don't forget that the rebellious phase will pass! Our boy decided that between 7-10 months that he had extremely selective hearing, but with some perseverance and regressing back to some puppy training and a whole lot of jumping around and running away, his recall has massively improved to the extent that we're happy to walk him in a strange park off the lead!


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## zigzag (Oct 4, 2011)

While a 30 or 50ft chk cord may have a place. I cannot see using anything that long effectively. I would recomend making a chk cord from a rubber air hose. I buy them from harbor freight and cut a 10ft and 15ft piece. Then steel eye ring hardwear placed into the open end of hose and held in by a pex clamp. You will need to open the steel eye ring a bit to attach a swivel leash clip. I start in the yard training at close distance with the chek cord on him and controlling him with it. Then move to a big training field with the pup dragging the cord, this is enough to let him know that I have control over him. Usually! If he still does not listen take the chk cord heel him back to the house and back to yard work.


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## R E McCraith (Nov 24, 2011)

JK - PS - I like a round check lead vs a ribbon style - less hang ups in the field & training bag - mendota makes a great product - also u can always shorten anything you get - I have found 20' works from pup 2 field dog training


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## gunnr (Aug 14, 2009)

30' to start, unless you have lots of open space as R E stated.

A little insight to to the check cord;
The check cord is not for control and punishment. Yes you have control, but that's not the end game. The end game is to use the cord to "extend the leash". You want to convince your pup that no matter the distance between you and him, you can and will enforce a command. It's the mind of the dog you're looking to train here, not his body. To get him off the cord and working on his own is the objective.
The eCollar is most effectively introduced with the check cord still attached. Give the command, when it's disregarded, a gentle tug of the check cord and beep, NOT SHOCK, of the eCollar. Work them both together. Command, gentle tug then beep. After time the beep of the eCollar and the tug of the check cord change place. When that phase seems to work it's time to leave the check cord attached and use the eCollar. Command, Beep, correction, then tug. The check cord is still attached as a safety measure.
I have never used an eCollar for the intro of birds, or during the steadying phase, it's always been a check cord. The eCollar, for me, is used for basic obedience work. Gunnr was my first V I actually needed the eCollar for. She was over the top as a youngster. All of her predecessors were trained with only the check cord.
One unintended benefit of a check cord is that you can drop it in heavier cover and when the dog blows you off and takes off, it's inevitable that it will get tangled up and stop the dog. Then it's a matter of walking up, untangling the dog and starting over.
This whole phase only lasts a few months. It's just a pain to get through.


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## lonestar (Jun 2, 2013)

50' is too long. What you want is instant response, which you can't get with a tug on a fifty foot cord. Also, no pinch or chain collars. A regular collar will work just fine. Try a 10-15 foot cord.

Remember that the cord is NOT a punishment, nor is it a way to exercise your own frustration at his temporary insanity. He's not doing this on purpose, he's distracted..as dogs get older their perceptual abilities improve and they recognize so much more...and hasn't learned to filter out those distractions. Let him do his thing, recall him, and when he doesn't, a quick snap on the lead and a repeat of the command. The cord gives you the absolutely most important thing in any command situation: Your ability to enforce the command itself. If he doesn't come, go get him, put him on a sit stay, walk away about 10 feet, and recall him. Repeat 5 or 6 or 7 times, until he's absolutely focused on you and gets it. Don't forget to praise a lot when he does.


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## Carolina Blue (Sep 20, 2012)

I have a 20' on Kiya..all is well until she sees something she wants. She is so darn fast, I can't get the cord fast enough! Then I'm on a hike to get her. Sometimes she will come back..sometimes not! I have an ecollar for her, just afraid to use it.


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## solefald (May 16, 2013)

I got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00074W3OK Photo is rather bad. The real color is safety orange. 
I have not used it yet, but beware, the "human end" does not have a loop on it or anything.


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## Rudy (Oct 12, 2012)

Good job solefald and Orange is a great color if you get in the brush creeks and more with your dog or dogs 

You can add a buggie system reducer at the end as well.

Less shock if he or she breaks with slack

Year 50 plus of working doggies 

I still use my daughters Horses lunge check ropes on my pointers and others ;D

About 25 fters and White :

I need to find the pic of Her Stallion I never nutted :'(

Running all of me through the side of the barn and then stomping me some fun

Star driver was a Beast

I asked in the ER did the lunge rope hold?

Sir most of it

is in your chest ;D

and the Star driver would drink full litter pepsi bottles one slurp

Then the sugar spikes

we would go into his own fenced area and have some fun" ;D

My Buffalo much more fun

feel free 1 ride 1 dollar ;D


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## R E McCraith (Nov 24, 2011)

JK - I use a 2 0r 11/2 inch pinch collar without studs 4 training - ? - it applies pressure evenly around the neck - buy the best so it releases immediately while not under pressure - pinch is not a bad word - kinder than a standard collar that only applies pressure 2 the throat !!!!!!!! - also only use a split ring collar 4 everything else


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## datacan (May 15, 2011)

What works for me...

1. Basic obedience with progs starts at 6 months, under limited distractions. 

2. Every training session lasts 10-15 minutes a few times/day... Sorry, NO TREATS OR BIG PRAISE - just pressure on/pressure off (reward is pressure off). 

3. Once the dog is 100% at recall within a 12' perimeter, I extend the perimeter to 50' (15 meters is not much, LOL) and ditch the prong collar (use a wide 1.5" soft padded flat collar). I choose open fields, limited distraction.

When this works well, I transfer every command to the ecollar. 
That means everything starts over again with ecollar on low, continuous (pressure stops the moment the dog starts thinking about moving in the right direction). 
* Sorry, NO beeps because the dog understands only pressure on/pressure off at this point. Beep will be overlayed later, once we are proficient. (However, beep has no bite and eventually the dog will ignore anyway). 

Once the dog understands pressure on/pressure off, and that he's actions control the stimulation, there is no limit to distance (dog is visible at all times, and not just a dot on the horizon)... I can pile the squirels, rabbits, deer... 

Not pro Vizsla hunting level, for that I may need another lifetime... ;D :-*


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## jkt89 (Jan 11, 2013)

Thanks for all your responses!! So helpful  I have decided to start with a 20 ft lead and will work my way up to an Ecollar. He may not be used for hunting seeing as how I don't even know how to work a gun, but he will be well trained even if it kills me, haha. 

Can't wait to get him reacquainted with a training regimen, but I'm not so sure my little buddy is as enthusiastic about the situation haha

Thanks again!!


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## born36 (Jun 28, 2011)

For me it comes down to a simple equation 

50' lead + 70lb V running full speed = Me on my back..... ;D

30' everytime.


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## datacan (May 15, 2011)

;D try a bungee... born 

anyone try this? http://www.thundershirt.com/Product/ThunderLeash.aspx?item_guid=07665bd4-cc1c-4f0c-be5d-26c277e64b56


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## born36 (Jun 28, 2011)

datacan said:


> ;D try a bungee... born


Yes but then he might catapult me!!!!! Would save on airfare I guess.


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