# Vizsla leash pulling, gasping for air



## JTmoneygrip (Dec 16, 2020)

I have a 7month old vizsla and the entire time we've had him he's had leash issues. He constantly pulls. We use a martingale collar, but the tightening of the collar doesn't seem to deter him. He will pull until he is gasping for air. I have to then let go of the leash and try to hold him because I'm afraid he's going to choke himself. Recently, we transitioned him to a prong collar...a starmark. It worked a little better, but he started to get used to the pain so he's pulling hard and still gasping for air. This is just a sample of his hyper behavior. He doesn't listen to commands. He won't come to me when I call him. He eats everything...as soon as we leave the house he must constantly have something in his mouth chewing which including rocks, poop, or anything he can find. He gets bored with toys quickly if he can't destroy them in 10 mins. However even the toughest toys he normally destroys. His favorite game is to put something dangerous in his mouth and have me chase him. It's scary because i can't catch him and he could choke or worse. My husband spent $2,600 getting all rocks removed from our backyard because of it. Any advice is appreciated.


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## InTheNet (Jun 1, 2016)

How much off leash exercise does he get every day?


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## gunnr (Aug 14, 2009)

Pulling sucks!! it hurts.
Dogs pull because we unknowingly reward the behavior. Generally, they are pulling in the direction we want to them to go anyway, and we get dragged along behind them. They get what they want, and no correction takes place.Next time STOP! right where you are. Do not move or break your feet. Become a post. Do not pull back on the leash, talk to him, or correct him. Stop, and wait him out. Let him be stupid, and choke himself , just don't you do it. The moment, the exact moment, any slack, or decrease in pressure is felt, you turn around and take him the opposite direction, then turn around and repeat. I will not lie to you, it might take twenty minutes to walk 100 yards.
Martingales, pinch collars, prong collars are all training aids to instill a behavior, and enforce a command that has already been taught. They will not modify a behavior that already exists by themselves.
I am a big advocate of "D-ring" safety harnesses and collars. I also use e-Collars, but they are in the same category as the martingales and pinch collars.
The reason I like the harness is because of the safe application of corrective control. Pulling on a dog from the neck, and pulling on the dog from behind the shoulder blades is a completely different leverage point. The dog cannot spin around a harness like they can a collar. Yes, they're more comfortable pulling against a harness, but that is only one behavior. I have the Cabela's harness and it has a handle so that if I have to I can pick the dog up off it's front feet. Yes, I have had to this a few times
From your post, it seems as if he just needs some basic obedience work. Rote, boring, on the leash, training. You need to begin to convince him that you are in charge, he does have to listen ,and your ideas are better than his ideas. Never let him pick the direction, or objective, even if it aligns with your intentions. You always pick the direction and path, he follows
In the immediate I would recommend to use your body as the leverage point. Right now you are probably just using a single arm and shoulder. Which hurts and puts a lot of pressure on your lower back.
Walk the dog on the left at heel if you are right handed, and always walk them from the same side. Have a 1" wide 9' long lead and attach it to the harness. The lead will wrap around your body at the waist line, and be held in your right hand. Wear gloves. When he pulls, or begins to apply pressure, you have the ability to spin your body in place like a capstan, in a counter clockwise direction, break his feet, and change his direction. He's coming to you. Once complete, swap the leash back to the original position and be ready to do it again. You will also be spinning into him, and he has to move, or get walked over. He will break his feet to avoid you and give you the moment to reestablish control. You can spin a 1200lb. horse this way. A 50 lb dog is much easier. It's all about controlling their feet.


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## JTmoneygrip (Dec 16, 2020)

InTheNet said:


> How much off leash exercise does he get every day?


He gets an hour a day either at the dog park or my husband and I chasing him or playing fetch. Twice a week he goes to doggy day care where he gets more exercise.


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## JTmoneygrip (Dec 16, 2020)

gunnr said:


> Pulling sucks!! it hurts.
> Dogs pull because we unknowingly reward the behavior. Generally, they are pulling in the direction we want to them to go anyway, and we get dragged along behind them. They get what they want, and no correction takes place.Next time STOP! right where you are. Do not move or break your feet. Become a post. Do not pull back on the leash, talk to him, or correct him. Stop, and wait him out. Let him be stupid, and choke himself , just don't you do it. The moment, the exact moment, any slack, or decrease in pressure is felt, you turn around and take him the opposite direction, then turn around and repeat. I will not lie to you, it might take twenty minutes to walk 100 yards.
> Martingales, pinch collars, prong collars are all training aids to instill a behavior, and enforce a command that has already been taught. They will not modify a behavior that already exists by themselves.
> I am a big advocate of "D-ring" safety harnesses and collars. I also use e-Collars, but they are in the same category as the martingales and pinch collars.
> ...


Wow! Thanks for the advice. I watch a lot of YouTube videos but haven't seen this method. I'm off work for an extended time during the holidays and I plan to spend the majority of it training the puppy.


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## gunnr (Aug 14, 2009)

Sometimes the You Tube videos, and books, are focused based on corrective intervention on the handlers part, which sometimes does not address the core behavioral issue, which is for the dog to stop pulling against a lead. Period. There should always be slack in a leash, once the dog is properly trained. The weight of the "U" formed by the leash, should be enough to maintain the dog in frame, and under control. This is the end goal, train from that goal. It takes time.
You have my absolute guarantee that if you tie your dog to a tree, or fence post, with any type of collar on, he will stop puling at it. I promise. You psychologically become that tree or fence post.
Two things will happen here. Hopefully very quickly.
First the puppy stops pulling at a tight lead, and gasping.
Second it learns that pulling will get it nowhere.
From here you bridge to the "heel", and it is not going to be pretty in the beginning. When the heel is properly taught. The dog should have it's shoulder at your left knee, with the ability to monitor your movement out of it's peripheral vision. The leash should be slack, and form a "U". The Heel is not the "Walk". Walk On is the dog out in front a specific distance, with no pressure on the leash. he weight of the leash, is enough to keep him at that distance.
With the puppy at your left, you are going to walk him in "squares", and like a shooting gallery duck. Your emotions should be very neutral.
Start off with right hand turns. Tap your thigh at each turn, command "here" but do not wait for him. You tap your thigh, give the command,and turn smartly on your heel. Next it will be left hand turns, tap your thigh, command, and smartly turn left. You are going to walk right through him in the beginning, because he will not be paying attention. This is his fault, not yours. His JOB is to pay attention to you, not the other way around. Don't be mean, or spiteful, about it, or make an overt move, you just turn and keep walking. 5-6 steps in each direction and then begin to mix it up.
You will also start out moving forward, then turn 180 degrees smartly and go the opposite direction. Again, the tap of the thigh, command, and the turn.
This will take many, many, weeks , or possibly months,to teach, and in the beginning, you may only get one or two steps that are done correctly. Praise those steps overtly. Make a big fuss over it when he takes the first few steps correctly. Keep the sessions short in the beginning, because it is a tremendous amount of pressure, and always end on the positive.


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## PinDave (Jul 1, 2020)

Maui was pulling like you describe, and it was very frustrating. We tried a Halti head harness, and it stopped his pulling instantly. When we first put it on and went for a walk, he gave one shake of resistance, and then walked perfectly with slack in the leash.

Now, as he has gotten used to it, he has learned how to pull even with the Halti, but it’s nowhere near as much. I think the best method for correcting the pulling is as gunnr has described above. The dog has to know who‘s leading, and doing the walk on your terms - not his - is critical.


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## AbeeV (Mar 9, 2019)

I had the same dog. . The walks were torture. The Easy Walk harness was a game changer on the very first day. Abee simply stopped lunging and followed along. There are other chest harnesses but that’s the one I used. I felt truly stupid putting up with the yanking for months. 
The poster that mentioned stopping in your tracks also is correct. I had tried those techniques though and had only limited success. But the chest harness was a miracle for me. For <$30!it saved my relationship with my pup and my shoulder. It’s at least worth a try. 
Re the other training issues, I thought I had an incorrigible dog re coming and other simple commands. But a few sessions with a clicker and a professional trainer proved it was me and my commitment to behavioral training and positive reinforcement. It does take time and repetition but apparently they’ll come around. Good luck.


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## JTmoneygrip (Dec 16, 2020)

JTmoneygrip said:


> Wow! Thanks for the advice. I watch a lot of YouTube videos but haven't seen this method. I'm off work for an extended time during the holidays and I plan to spend the majority of it training the puppy.


one question...can I use a leash while applying the "body leverage method. We do have a harness, but just wondering. Also we only have martingales and the one training collar. Would it be best to use a normal dog collar?


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## JTmoneygrip (Dec 16, 2020)

AbeeV said:


> I had the same dog. . The walks were torture. The Easy Walk harness was a game changer on the very first day. Abee simply stopped lunging and followed along. There are other chest harnesses but that’s the one I used. I felt truly stupid putting up with the yanking for months.
> The poster that mentioned stopping in your tracks also is correct. I had tried those techniques though and had only limited success. But the chest harness was a miracle for me. For <$30!it saved my relationship with my pup and my shoulder. It’s at least worth a try.
> Re the other training issues, I thought I had an incorrigible dog re coming and other simple commands. But a few sessions with a clicker and a professional trainer proved it was me and my commitment to behavioral training and positive reinforcement. It does take time and repetition but apparently they’ll come around. Good luck.


one question...can I use a leash while applying the "body leverage method. We do have a harness, but just wondering. Also we only have martingales and the one training collar. Would it be best to use a normal dog collar?


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## JTmoneygrip (Dec 16, 2020)

gunnr said:


> Sometimes the You Tube videos, and books, are focused based on corrective intervention on the handlers part, which sometimes does not address the core behavioral issue, which is for the dog to stop pulling against a lead. Period. There should always be slack in a leash, once the dog is properly trained. The weight of the "U" formed by the leash, should be enough to maintain the dog in frame, and under control. This is the end goal, train from that goal. It takes time.
> You have my absolute guarantee that if you tie your dog to a tree, or fence post, with any type of collar on, he will stop puling at it. I promise. You psychologically become that tree or fence post.
> Two things will happen here. Hopefully very quickly.
> First the puppy stops pulling at a tight lead, and gasping.
> ...


I am adding this to my "home training schedule". Yes, I can see why it may take some time, but being able to walk down the street, comfortabley, with him sounds blissful!!


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## JTmoneygrip (Dec 16, 2020)

PinDave said:


> Maui was pulling like you describe, and it was very frustrating. We tried a Halti head harness, and it stopped his pulling instantly. When we first put it on and went for a walk, he gave one shake of resistance, and then walked perfectly with slack in the leash.
> 
> Now, as he has gotten used to it, he has learned how to pull even with the Halti, but it’s nowhere near as much. I think the best method for correcting the pulling is as gunnr has described above. The dog has to know who‘s leading, and doing the walk on your terms - not his - is critical.


I agree. We have certainly catered to our puppy and he knows it! I told my husband today that we love our puppy hard...now its time to also bring in some discipline.


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## JTmoneygrip (Dec 16, 2020)

AbeeV said:


> I had the same dog. . The walks were torture. The Easy Walk harness was a game changer on the very first day. Abee simply stopped lunging and followed along. There are other chest harnesses but that’s the one I used. I felt truly stupid putting up with the yanking for months.
> The poster that mentioned stopping in your tracks also is correct. I had tried those techniques though and had only limited success. But the chest harness was a miracle for me. For <$30!it saved my relationship with my pup and my shoulder. It’s at least worth a try.
> Re the other training issues, I thought I had an incorrigible dog re coming and other simple commands. But a few sessions with a clicker and a professional trainer proved it was me and my commitment to behavioral training and positive reinforcement. It does take time and repetition but apparently they’ll come around. Good luck.


Thank you! I have a clicker, but never used it. Now im curious to see how trainers are using it for their dogs and maybe incorporate it into my training plan. I will definitly take a look at the harness!


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## AbeeV (Mar 9, 2019)

JTmoneygrip said:


> one question...can I use a leash while applying the "body leverage method. We do have a harness, but just wondering. Also we only have martingales and the one training collar. Would it be best to use a normal dog collar?


I used the leash around my waist (body as lever) when trying to train on a regular dog collar. It helped. But it was unnecessary when I used the cheat harness. After she tried a couple of pulls, and falls, she walked with slack in the leash. 
That said, the principles the others have discussed are key. You are the leader. The dog cannot be in front. The chest harness just facilitated that goal for me. . She still has her regular collar. I just don’t use the leash on it. And when i do, if she pulls I freeze, change direction, etc.
Good luck.


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## ana19 (Jun 26, 2020)

The thing that helped with Aron's pulling is carrying a clicker and a treat bag with me. I carry a few different types of treats because we also work on some dog reactivity. I carry his kibble which is low value then medium value treats, and hot dogs which are high value. Click and treat and make a party for EVERY check-in. Remember, *reinforcement drives behavior*. Also teaching heel is helpful because it teaches them attention but I do not walk him in a heel position all the time only when we're passing people. I let him sniff. It's his walk. BUT if you do have problems with loose leash walking I would interpret heeling a short amount of time with a high level of reinforcement and then release to sniff. Then again, heel, treats ok go sniff! Also, you can condition a kissing sound or tongue click that means hey, pay attention to me! You do this the same as with a clicker. The sound then treat! Also, I found the technique that gunnr said works best if you *stop dead in your tracks when they pull, and then when they turn back to you you click for attention then treat*. This helped a lot with Arons loose leash walking but he still has days where he doesn't care about me whatsoever. So I put him in a heel for a short period of time and when I see I have his attention he's released.


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## JTmoneygrip (Dec 16, 2020)

ana19 said:


> The thing that helped with Aron's pulling is carrying a clicker and a treat bag with me. I carry a few different types of treats because we also work on some dog reactivity. I carry his kibble which is low value then medium value treats, and hot dogs which are high value. Click and treat and make a party for EVERY check-in. Remember, *reinforcement drives behavior*. Also teaching heel is helpful because it teaches them attention but I do not walk him in a heel position all the time only when we're passing people. I let him sniff. It's his walk. BUT if you do have problems with loose leash walking I would interpret heeling a short amount of time with a high level of reinforcement and then release to sniff. Then again, heel, treats ok go sniff! Also, you can condition a kissing sound or tongue click that means hey, pay attention to me! You do this the same as with a clicker. The sound then treat! Also, I found the technique that gunnr said works best if you *stop dead in your tracks when they pull, and then when they turn back to you you click for attention then treat*. This helped a lot with Arons loose leash walking but he still has days where he doesn't care about me whatsoever. So I put him in a heel for a short period of time and when I see I have his attention he's released.


i am trying this tomorrow!!


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## ana19 (Jun 26, 2020)

JTmoneygrip said:


> i am trying this tomorrow!!


Another thing I remembered is to* give it time*. In loose leash walking, there are many things that may influence the pulling. Ask yourself, am I using* high enough reinforcers*? Am I walking in *too distracting environments*? If you're using kibble and trying to teach him LLW in a store that is full of people and other dogs then that is a recipe for disaster. You will get frustrated and your dog will get frustrated. 

Also, try this without the prong collar. Ditch it for 2-3 weeks. You want your dog to *want to* be next to you not do that because if he* has to* (if he doesn't something bad will happen). Learning takes time and LLW is very complex. I first started seeing results after a week maybe but that will depend on your dog, you, and the environment.


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## ana19 (Jun 26, 2020)

One more thought. I'm sorry, my mind is everywhere today. 

When you've built his reinforcement history, try to lessen the number of times where you cue heel. You'll see that if he has that reinforcement history built very well and for a period of time he'll come close to you without you needing to cue it. Again, reward every check-in and make a party of it. I'm cool with Aron being everywhere around me if his leash is loose (unless if we're passing other people or cars) but it all comes down to personal preference.


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