# What do I need for new Puppy?



## Abbeytx (Feb 7, 2017)

Apologies as I'm sure there is already a thread on this topic; however, I could not find it through search. We are getting our first vizsla puppy this summer- late July or early August. Besides the obvious things, what can you recommend we have ready before our sweet puppy arrives? Would love to know about your favorites brands of products as well. We are so excited, its like preparing for a new baby! Thank you so much!


----------



## harrigab (Aug 21, 2011)

welcome to the forum Abbeytx, what sort of preparations have you already decided on?


----------



## Abbeytx (Feb 7, 2017)

So far just the small kennel to start with, a few toys and bed....I've got lots of shopping to do!


----------



## v-john (Jan 27, 2013)

Time and energy!


----------



## texasred (Jan 29, 2012)

With very young pups I like the adjustable collars, as they grow very fast. Although I bought some of the tiny ones, and they are cute keepsakes. They just out grow them very fast. Light weight leads to start out with, the thicker ones for later. 
If you have any rooms without doors, that you want kept off limits. Baby gates work well when they are small. A odor eliminator spray, as accidents happen. 

One thing that I like are baby toys. The ones that are made to entertain babies. They have a lot of different textures, sounds, and lights. I feel it helps expose puppies to new things, before they go through any fear stages. I'd look at garage sales, as buying new can get expensive. 

Start looking for places off the beaten path, where most people don't take their dogs. That way you can still take him/her on outings before all the shots are complete.


----------



## Spy Car (Sep 3, 2014)

Try to avoid the collars with "quick release" features (that are often marketed for use with puppies) as these tend to let loose at the most inopportune times and present special dangers with untrained young dogs.

Also, encourage all behaviors that you hope will continue into adulthood, and conversely don't encourage any that seem "cute" in a puppy but would be unwelcome in an adult dog.

Get your hand gently in the pup's mouth a lot as it goes through the inevitable teething/biting stage.When the pup bites (it will) go a little deeper in the mouth with your hand, which will cause the bite to relax. Don't pull your hands away or shout "No!". No drama. This bite inhibition training is the most important aspect of raising a puppy and is a "process" that has great rewards.

Best wishes,

Bill


----------



## Anida (Jun 10, 2016)

Baby gates can work well, but be warned... our Kaylee could climb them


----------



## suzannethemom (Oct 27, 2015)

I recommend getting a light-weight dog bed or crate pad that you can bring into whatever room you're in so puppy can be with you at all times. When you're getting ready in the bathroom, cooking in the kitchen, paying bills on your computer, doing laundry, eating dinner, etc, the puppy will want to be with you. A portable bed comes in handy and makes the puppy feel secure in it's new environment, kind of like a security blanket.

Here is Chloe as a puppy in her portable pink bed.


----------



## riley455 (Aug 27, 2011)

She is very cute!

I would recommend getting the following:

1. a good dremel for trimming nails and styptic powder
2. toothbrush and toothpaste
3. plenty of toys


----------



## harrigab (Aug 21, 2011)

Anida said:


> Baby gates can work well, but be warned... our Kaylee could climb them


when our kids were toddlers (human ones) they did too,,they had to go...the gates, not the kids,,,although on reflection maybe it should've been the other way round haha


----------



## MikoMN (Nov 29, 2016)

Yay! Enjoy the first couple months. They are hard, but fun. Some things we wish we had been told:

1. We bought a big, kennel with separator for when he was small. We thought this would save money because we could move the separator as he got bigger...well he never got big enough for the kennel, so we had to buy another anyway. We wish we would have just started smaller and bought/sold as needed as he grew.
2. Towels for the kennel. He will probably have accidents in it, and he will probably chew up all those fancy pads and mats you put in there.
3. Dremel for nails is amazing. Styptic powder would be awesome to have ahead of time. We don't have petsmart type store here, and no one carried it. We accidently clipped a quick, and had to wait 10 days for delivery. (kind of defeats the purpose)
4.Take a lot of pictures, and videos.
5. A good 6 foot leash that you can hold onto well. The skinny/flat strap like leashes aren't as comfortable to hold on walks. We feel Retractable ones quickly become too short when they really want to start exploring. You also can't just drop it and let him drag it around like you can a rope leash.
6. A brush (Vizslas do shed, regardless of what we often hear)


----------



## harrigab (Aug 21, 2011)

kevlar ankle gaiters...for when the shark attacks kick in,,haha


----------



## Abbeytx (Feb 7, 2017)

Wow! Thank you all so much for the great info and advice. Please keep it coming. 
I read at one point discussing using a plastic kennel vs the wire crate- that the regular hard plastic type helps them feel safer- would like to hear opinions on that. Thankfully, I have both right now to use from a family member until I need to upgrade in size. Did you guys use newspapers, pee pads or just towels in the kennel/crate in the beginning for accidents?


----------



## harrigab (Aug 21, 2011)

I used a wire crate with a blanket thrown over to give it the feel of a den. I just used normal bedding in the bottom and washed it as necessary, I didn't like the idea of pee pads as I didn't want to encourage peeing in the crate and just used tons of praise when they pee'd outside.


----------



## Anida (Jun 10, 2016)

We used old towels because Kaylee would shred everything we put in there. She also preferred to not have the wire crate covered so you might have to try that too depending on your pup


----------



## MikoMN (Nov 29, 2016)

Our boy never liked the wire kennel. In fact we just tried switching them out again, and he would never choose to go in his wire one. Put the plastic back out, and we often find him in there when we are looking for him.

Towels. Like I said, we tried other things, he just shredded them or peed on them.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## Betty (Apr 14, 2016)

Get lots of sleep ahead of time too!


----------



## suzannethemom (Oct 27, 2015)

Be sure to find out which dry kibble the breeder is feeding the puppy. Usually the breeder will give you a supply of the kibble. You will need to feed the puppy the exact same brand/type until you decide to switch to another brand. Then you should gradually introduce the NEW kibble by mixing it with the current brand. This will help avoid diarrhea and stomach upset.

The common ratio is:
75% current kibble, 25% new kibble for a couple of days
50% of each kibble for a couple of days
25% current kibble, 75% new kibble for a few days
Then 100% of the new kibble


----------



## szigler (Feb 21, 2017)

Things I now have on hand that I hadn't thought of before getting her:
Nail Powder to stop bleeding (haven't had to use yet, thankfully)
Benedryl
Pepto Bismol
Frozen White Rice and plain chicken to microwave quickly in case of upset stomach issues
Doggy Bag to carry out places (with portable water dish, extra towels, wipes for your hands, mat or blanket, extra treats and toys)
Training treat bags


----------



## Garvs (Apr 8, 2017)

Patience and stamina!

It's pretty tough in the early stages if you're doing it alone like I am (almost 6 mos in now), but so worth it. Load up on chew toys and get ready to say "noooo" a lot lol. A fenced in yard, invisible fence or some type of containment where pup can run a bit I found to be a Godsend. (I went with Invisible fence) Also be prepared for EVERYTHING to go into mouth. Best of luck to you and enjoy the journey!!! 

"NOOO!"


----------



## Abbeytx (Feb 7, 2017)

At what age can I let him/her off leash to run?


----------



## Abbeytx (Feb 7, 2017)

We have huge backyard bordered by a creek and woods on the back. We are getting IF but may be a few months in. Want to let the puppy run but afraid of it running off!! Especially with all the squirrels, birds, etc to distract it!


----------



## texasred (Jan 29, 2012)

Most of them stay closer when very young. It's when they get just a little older, and bolder, that they can range further exploring.


----------



## Spy Car (Sep 3, 2014)

A typical Vizsla want to be with you more than anything else, so if they run one way, run in the other direction and it will likely come flying in.

Bill


----------



## Anida (Jun 10, 2016)

Spy Car said:


> A typical Vizsla want to be with you more than anything else, so if they run one way, run in the other direction and it will likely come flying in.
> 
> Bill


This is pretty typical of our V. She runs ahead when she's off leash but she frequently checks to make sure I'm still following or that she can see me.


----------



## MikoMN (Nov 29, 2016)

Mine is not typical. From early on, he started running with no regard to where you are. Even now, after working on it with training, he will run a good 200 yards...whether he can see you or not. He'll stay closer if we remind him though. I'm still hoping he grows out of it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## texasred (Jan 29, 2012)

Cash as a puppy would start howling, if he couldn't see us on a hike. He might just be around the bend in a trail, but realized he couldn't see us. June would just slow up, if she thought she was to far away from us. 
And then there was Lucy. Even as a tiny puppy, she was all about the hunt. She could be a football field away from you, and could care less if you were in the field. She was going to be chasing anything that flew, ran, or hopped. If she started mousing, you might get close enough to step on the check cord. 
With her I started running her in fields without ponds, and carrying birds. She would have to come to me for a drink. And throwing a bird, or two always got her back in my direction. I think she was about 6 months old, when we started conditioning her to the ecollar.


----------

