# Tantrum when walking



## mgates (Sep 20, 2011)

Clementine is 6 months old and gets 2-3 walks a day (30-45 minutes each). She does really well for the first 3/4 of the walk, and then completely loses it for the last part... pulling on the leash until she can hardly breath, jumping up and twisting her body around, barking, yelping, etc. Doesn't matter how long or short the walk is or the weather, this ALWAYS happens.

We've tried a harness and have now switched to a gentle leader. The gentle leader helps some with the pulling, but she still is almost unmanageable by the end. Not sure what the deal is - has anyone else had this problem? She loves going for walks and gets excited when she sees the leash, but it's almost like a switch flips part way through and she just wants to get home NOW.


----------



## threefsh (Apr 25, 2011)

We have the same issue with our Riley girl! It's as if she KNOWS she is almost home... I swear, she can smell it or something. My husband has even tried different routes to no avail. The one and only thing we've done that has worked (and this takes A LOT of patience) is every time she freaks out and pulls toward the house we turn around and walk in the opposite direction. It's funny, 'cause this means the last part of the walk usually takes way longer than it should. She seems to be slowly learning that pulling just gets her taken in the opposite direction. I'm looking forward to someday being able to walk down the home stretch without her going nuts.

Any more experienced V owners have some good tips for this? We tried treats to distract Ri and it seems like the only thing that has worked is walking the opposite direction until she chills.

*edit*- Our Ri is only 14 weeks... I hope this gets better as she gets older!


----------



## Spuds Mom (Dec 12, 2011)

I agree with threefsh- Spud started doing the same thing, so we just started walking right on by the house! Then after a few more houses, we turn around and try again, and if he blows it again, we just walk on by again! Eventually, he made the connection that pulling like a crazy pup caused us to NOT get home like he wanted. Good luck!


----------



## redbirddog (Apr 23, 2010)

mgates,
A trick I was shown very early with my dogs was the "hitch." You take a standard 6 foot leash that is attached to the collar. You take the leash from the collar and wrap it around the belly of the dog and thread it through itself and then to your hand. When the dog pulls the "hitch" tightens around the center section of the dog and it can't keep pulling. When the dog quits pulling the hitch loosens.
My wife uses this when she walk Bailey. I'll try and post something to my blog that shows this. 

The "hitch" works.

Good luck.

Rod a.k.a. redbirddog
http://redbirddog.blogspot.com


----------



## redrover (Mar 17, 2011)

My trainer also showed me the "hitch", and I commonly used that while Jasper was still being leash-trained, but when we weren't actively working on the loose-leash walking. It's fantastic, because the leash is doing the correction, not you. It doesn't hurt the dog, it's just uncomfortable. Jasper would stop immediately once it tightened. I personally didn't do this with a rope or standard nylon leash, but rather a softer, at least 1/2 inch wide, cotton leash. There's also a lot fewer theatrics with the hitch as opposed to a Gentle Leader.

I'm sure you know this, but I just want to caution you on one aspect of the Gentle Leader--if Clementine (that is an adorable name, by the way) ever suddenly rushes forward from a loose-leash position, the Gentle Leader can really snap that head back once she hits the end of the leash. That can sometimes cause some strain on her neck. It's the only reason I personally never used it, since Jasper had, and still sometimes has, a habit of doing exactly that.

FWIW, Jasper's being trained on a slip lead. We practice loose-leash walking by walking at my left side. I hold the end of the leash in my right hand, and some of the extra in my left. When Jasper starts moving too fast/ignoring me, I immediately drop the leash in my left hand, turn, and walk at least 10 steps in the opposite direction. He has to stop and turn to catch up with me. This really seemed to help a lot when ever he started pulling to go see people/dogs/etc. It's now to the point that I only have to drop the leash from my left hand and he'll put the brakes on. If you try this, I think Clementine will catch on pretty quickly that if she's pulling towards home, you suddenly get farther away from it.


----------



## KonasPop (Aug 9, 2011)

What else have you tried thus far? Whats the reaction of you guys when she does this - do you talk? Do you pull back (unconcisously or conciously?) What do you currently do?

When little, we've had dogs throw tantrums or start to tweek when they know something familiar is around the corner. Takes some patience, especially during the cold months or in front of your neighbors house  ...but we just wait it out completely. Stop, dont move, dont say anything...the most you might want to work on while stop is a heel but even that can be hard during the spazz. So just sit there...eventually the dog learns that the tantrum gets us no where - no turning, no walking, no nothing. 

I've seen some trainers slowly stroke the sides of their dogs while the dog is settling...eventually that "spazz" passes and they resume walk when your dog is simply standing and/or watching you ...you have to even wait past the "alert at everything stage" - you know the one where the dogs head is basically back and forth even though its legs arent moving...the dog will get sort of a puzzled look and just kind of look at you...be preparred for all sorts ofwhinning etc. 

Just one tactic of many...good luck to you guys - still a youngin so wouldnt pay it too much mind...


----------



## mgates (Sep 20, 2011)

We've tried a few different reactions to this behavior

1. Give her a timeout. Stand still and don't give her any attention until she calms down, and then continue walking. The problem is she's fine as soon as you stop walking and will just sit still. But once you start walking again she continues to pull, jump, yelp (my husband calls it her bird noises).

2. Tried to soothe her - talk to her while walking, pet her, take a break and sit next to her. Not very effective.

3. Start running. This actually works some but can't be the right solution. It's just rewarding her and getting her home faster!

4. Lately I've been shortening the leash so she has barely any slack (without choking her of course). This also seems to work for awhile. If she calms down I loosen the leash, but then she starts to go crazy almost immediately.

I'm curious to see how the "turn the other direction" approach works.


----------



## KonasPop (Aug 9, 2011)

couple things - on the stop til she's calm, you really do have to wait it out. Like I mentioned, reading her head, tail and ear cues will tell you when she is really calm versus just not moving. Its likely that you're not waiting long enough in this scenario. 

if the turn on heel doesnt work, you might want to start considering a check cord approach and then later a ecollar. Also, a slip lead works super well with v's and the tiny neck vs a harness or gentle leader. Slip leads come in sturdy leather at 4ft if you want so you dont have to deal with the slack issues at all...we only use her 4ft lead for walks now. 

Between the labs, weims, and v's I've noticed that labs are much more willing to heal for long lenths of time. The weims and the v's (just given the genes) like to be out front a few yards. We've made the compromise with the two latter breeds that we'll create more solid recalls/waits/woahs then try and have the dogs heel for the entirety of a walk. 

Not sure what the entire walk looks like, but whats helped with ours is calling our heels when we absolutely need them on the bike path, around other dogs, before crossing streets etc. So she rides ahead of me for about 90% of the walk - similar to the field. Our other commands are strong enough and she's got enough freedom that the bolting/spazz becomes a non issues. 

Not sure if that mades sense...


----------



## ctracyverizon (May 26, 2011)

Here is a picture of the hitch. It can sit on top also. I am using this also and it is helpful.


----------



## redrover (Mar 17, 2011)

Pretty dog!

Here's a close-up of Jasper's hitch.


----------



## redbirddog (Apr 23, 2010)

> Here's a close-up of Jasper's hitch.


Good picture of the "hitch" there redrover. 



> I personally didn't do this with a rope or standard nylon leash, but rather a softer, at least 1/2 inch wide, cotton leash.


Agree that you'd want to use at least a 1/2 inch wide leash of cloth or leather. 1 inch wide would be better.

RBD


----------



## Ozkar (Jul 4, 2011)

I resorted to the hitch with my pointer. I got her at 12 months and she had never been walked on a lead prior to that. So she was horrible. Pulling, crossing over. Just not enjoyable. With my pointer however, the hind loop didn't bother her, so I ended up looping it around her front leg. This worked even better on her. The very second the loop cinched up a little, she backed straight off. So if it doesn't work on the hind try it on the front. 

Also with the front, it tended to put her off balance a touch and pull her slightly to the side, which seemed even more influential. 

Good luck, a puppy which misbehaves on lead is a PITA to walk!


----------



## R E McCraith (Nov 24, 2011)

Mendota dog products sells a hitch lead great product


----------



## ctracyverizon (May 26, 2011)

I use a climbing rope lead with a locking carbiner so there is no chance of him springing the clip.

It's a thick rope and it slides against itself well and so tightens and loosens quickly.


----------

