# walking loose leash



## number10 (Jun 2, 2014)

Eszti pulls like a demon on the leash, not just some of the walk, but all of the walk. I can't take one step and she is pulling at the end of the lead. I know this is a topic that keeps coming up and apart from the half-hitch suggestion (which i fear would hurt her), I feel I have tried a quite a few ideas.

We have been to puppy classes: I have tried stopping when she pulls (I spend a lot of time standing still with she pulling so hard her front legs are off the ground), waiting for her to look at me /sit before i walk, saying "easy" and jiggling the lead, the stop and turn quickly technique (I end up dragging her) - nothing works. I have tried walking along holding a treat at my side in front of her nose - which works whilst I have a treat in front of her nose, as soon as my hand goes into my pocket for another she's at the end of that lead again.

I don't seem to be able to get even two steps of loose leash for which to praise - so I can't find a window in which she can be rewarded and learn. I don't what I am doing wrong: she is usually so smart and willing to please.

She is wonderful at everything else, not perfect, but she tries, and we improve. I can't see that the walk is any pleasure for her and at least one of us was in tears this time....

Have we spent too much time off leash? What am I doing wrong?


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## Ozkar (Jul 4, 2011)

Have you tried reversing direction? 

This is not always an easy thing to correct. All dogs are different. I was lucky, mine have been loose lead and off lead heel from shortly after I got them. But, some dogs have huge engines. Have you tried running, roading, cycling, off lead running to expend some energy prior to trying more lead training?

Otherwise. Consistency and repetition are the only real solutions.


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## texasred (Jan 29, 2012)

Bird dog were meant to work in front of us, so its just their nature to sled dog on lead when young. Besides that is a brand new world to them, and they want to see it all, not walk obediently by your side. Try nagging the dog, by doing short quick pulls to the side, not to the back. Keep all leash training short. Work with the pup for a few minutes at a time, and then release her to play.
You will accomplish more with 3 five minute training sessions, than 1 long one.

People don't realize when they see these high drive hunting dogs preform flawlessly, that they have been training for years, not months.


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## vangtt (Feb 27, 2014)

The reverse direction worked wonders for us. Hunter went from sounding like yours to moderately under control once I started switching directions with a sharp tug of the leash every time he started pulling. I say moderately because even though this worked when we were alone...if there were people or other dogs this had no effect. It was still amazing to not have any pulling 80% during our walks though! 

To rant more (so bare with me)...I originally tried using this technique for healing right next to me without his nose going past an inch or two of my left knee...but this didn't work so well. And since I didn't want to be more harsh than I felt I already was with the sharp tug...I eventually let that go and was just happy with him not pulling. But about 1 month ago I bought a pinch collar with the hope to refine his heeling at my side and to prevent him from going ape $hit when other people and dogs walked past. This has worked very well. I introduced him to this via the techniques in two videos I found on YouTube; "how to use a prong collar part 1" and "how to use prong collar part 2". Once he was used to having the collar on, I would tug just very lightly once his nose past 1-2 inches my left knee during our walks. We've gotten him to the point where I can heel him this way without the leash for short periods of time. Other dogs and people were very challenging for him at first - and still sort of is. He'd do his usual routine of lunging at them but he learned pretty quickly that it doesn't feel so good...and if he'd just stop pulling the pressure is off. He's still not 100% obedient when other folks walk past...but he's so much better now. I'd say about 75% of the time he stays in his heel position and other times he tries to jump at them. To remind him I usually repeat "heal" until the other folks pass me. Don't know if you plan on hunting with your V? I do and so I was concerned that this would have a negative impact on his driving instincts and that he would not want to leave my side. I am pleased to say it hasn't. When we're in the field he's still as bold as ever when I tell him to "go find". I think it helped that during our walks I'd typically switch between heel and letting him explore slightly ahead by saying "go".

This being said...this is just what worked for me. I was very careful because I had read how sensitive Vs can be. I think if my V showed any signs of becoming timid during any of these sessions I would have abandoned it and continue trying pure positive reinforcement methods. I took 2 puppy classes where positive reinforcement with food was encouraged...but I had a hard time getting that to work. Hunter is super picky about what he eats. So it was a hit or miss whether he was food motivated on any given day.


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## Ozkar (Jul 4, 2011)

TexasRed said:


> Bird dog were meant to work in front of us, so its just their nature to sled dog on lead when young. Besides that is a brand new world to them, and they want to see it all, not walk obediently by your side. Try nagging the dog, by doing short quick pulls to the side, not to the back. Keep all leash training short. Work with the pup for a few minutes at a time, and then release her to play.
> You will accomplish more with 3 five minute training sessions, than 1 long one.
> 
> People don't realize when they see these high drive hunting dogs preform flawlessly, that they have been training for years, not months.



And even with years the buggers still decide not to do what they've been trained to do sometimes! ;D


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## number10 (Jun 2, 2014)

TexasRed said:


> Bird dog were meant to work in front of us, so its just their nature to sled dog on lead when young. Besides that is a brand new world to them, and they want to see it all, not walk obediently by your side. Try nagging the dog, by doing short quick pulls to the side, not to the back. Keep all leash training short. Work with the pup for a few minutes at a time, and then release her to play.
> You will accomplish more with 3 five minute training sessions, than 1 long one.
> 
> People don't realize when they see these high drive hunting dogs preform flawlessly, that they have been training for years, not months.


Now that you say that - I can see it, thank you. She does like to be a good 5-10 metres in front of me off leash, of course the leash will be a constraint - and yes she is very excited by the world. And you've given me an idea: I might use a harness and leash for going about, and a collar and leash for training in short spells until we both can manage the loose leash walk. Thank you, TexasRed!


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## number10 (Jun 2, 2014)

That's helpful Vangt - I am a bit concerned that she will come to hate the walk so I'm going to move it into a training and treat opportunity for now. I can always step it up a bit, later. Glad you know you overcame your dog's pulling though!


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## number10 (Jun 2, 2014)

Ozkar said:


> Have you tried reversing direction?
> 
> This is not always an easy thing to correct. All dogs are different. I was lucky, mine have been loose lead and off lead heel from shortly after I got them. But, some dogs have huge engines. Have you tried running, roading, cycling, off lead running to expend some energy prior to trying more lead training?
> 
> Otherwise. Consistency and repetition are the only real solutions.


Yes, reversing direction is what was recommended, but it just seems to create more tension on the lead and for Eszti it didn't produce the " hey, that's confusing, what do you want me to do?" response, she just became frustrated and a bit wary. I will heed the suggestion to tire her out properly first. Great idea. Thank you.


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